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15 Aug 2016

The Indy Endorsement: The Queso Bonita Tacos at La Bonita's

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See those crunchy bits of cheese on the edges of the tortillas? OMG! See those crunchy bits of cheese on the edges of the tortillas? OMG! CVI Crapcam

What: The Queso Bonita Tacos

Where: La Bonita’s, 330 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs

How much: $12.99

Contact: 760-318-8883; www.labonitas.com

Why: Crispy cheese is an amazing thing.

Ah, the taco. It’s the perfect food—delicious, potentially nutritious, easy to make and effortless to eat. Plus, it singlehandedly elevated the status of Tuesday, formerly the most boring day of the week.

It’s not easy to improve on supposed perfection—yet that’s exactly what the good folks at downtown Palm Springs Mexican joint La Bonita’s have done to the taco.

The queso Bonita tacos have all of the good stuff one would expect in a taco—fantastic carne asada or chicken, plus salsa, onion and cilantro, all placed on a fresh tortilla. Then comes the unexpected: The tortilla is coated with crispy, melted-and-then-cooked-on cheese.

Oh. My. God. The sharp flavor of the cheese adds a whole ’nother flavor level to the tacos. There’s nothing particularly special about the accompanying beans, rice and salad—but these tacos are special enough, thank you very much.

The queso Bonita tacos are just one of the much-raved-about dishes this year-old Mexican restaurant offers in the weirdly narrow Palm Canyon Drive space that previously housed several short-lived Asian joints. Friends of mine have spoken highly about the chimichangas and the burrito bowls, for example, and one of my dining companions would not stop talking about the California burrito ($11.99), which contains either carne asada or chicken, the usual burrito fillings and … French fries. Yes, inside the burrito.

If you’re reading this shortly after its posting, and these words have made you hungry, I have some bad news: The restaurant, like too many others around town, is currently in the midst of an August closure. (“Small remodel,” explains the La Bonita Facebook page.) Expect La Bonita to reopen on Aug. 27.

There is a lot of fine Mexican food in Palm Springs (as well as some not-so-fine Mexican food). And that queso Bonita taco plate is among the finest.

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