CVI Crapcam
The broth is the BOMB. Credit: CVI Crapcam

What: The Happy Hour Mussels/Clams Steamer Combo in White Wine Broth

Where: Trilussa Ristorante, 68718 E. Palm Canyon Drive, Cathedral City

How much: $10

Contact: 760-328-2300; trilussarestaurant.com

Why: It’s all about the broth.

When I ordered from the bartender while sitting at the bar at Trilussa, I said: “I’d like the mussels and clams combo steamers in the white-wine broth, please.”

However, if I were being completely honest and accurate, I would have said: “I’d like the white-wine broth, and a whole bunch of bread so I can sop it all up, please. You can bring mussels and clams, too, but they’re incidental.”

I mean no disrespect to the bivalves in this dish; they’re perfectly acceptable, and in fact, I’ll acknowledge that their presence adds a bit of seafood flavor to the broth. But, really, this dish is about the wine, the butter, the garlic and the seasonings that constitute the yummy, yummy liquid.

This broth is just one of many reasons you should check out the happy hour at Trilussa, which is available at the bar every day between 4 and 7 p.m. (FYI: Sister-restaurant Sammy G’s, in downtown Palm Springs, also offers a similar happy hour menu—including steamers with delicious broth—through the day until 8 p.m.) Add in glasses of house wine for $4, beer for $3 (domestic) or $4 (imported), well drinks for $5, and all sorts of other food bargains ranging from New Zealand lamb chops ($12) to personal pizzas ($8-$10), and the result is one the valley’s top happy hours.

It’s also worth noting that Trilussa is nice. Ample windows offer the space a lot of natural lighting, and the décor is classy without being pretentious.

In summary … Trilussa’s happy hour is scrumptious, inexpensive and comfortably lovely. You really should check it out.

Jimmy Boegle is the founding editor and publisher of the Coachella Valley Independent. He is also the executive editor and publisher of the Reno News & Review in Reno, Nev. A native of Reno, the Dodgers...